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spun silk fabric is a kind of fabric that uses low-value raw materials such as defective cocoons and waste silk produced in sericulture, reeling, and weaving. through processing, its added value is increased to make high-grade spun silk fabrics. spun silk fabrics not only save resources, but also increase profits, and have strong economic and social benefits. spun silk fabric inherits ancient chinese silk culture. it retains the natural luster, softness, breathability and other characteristics of silk, and also gives silk more styles and functions, such as anti-wrinkle, easy to care for, etc., making it adapt to the needs and preferences of modern people.
silk spinning can be divided into two categories: spun silk spinning and noil silk spinning. The products include spun silk yarn and noil silk yarn.spun silk yarn also can be interwoven with chemical fibers, raw silk or wool yarn to form fabrics with beautiful appearance and comfortable wearing. Spun Silk can also be used to make knitted fabrics, as well as sewing threads and embroidery threads. noil silk left from spun silk yarn manufacture is soft and plump, with many grains on the surface. It is loose and fluffy with a unique style.
Raw materials for spun silk fabrics
The raw materials of spun silk fabrics are mainly mulberry silkworm cocoons, tussah silkworm cocoons and castor silkworm cocoons. In the process of silk reeling, these cocoons are leftover due to various reasons, such as defective cocoons, waste silk, etc. Their quality and fineness are different from normal cocoons. The difference is that it cannot be directly used for silk weaving, but after processing by silk spinning process, longer fibers can be extracted and made into spun silk. There are many kinds of raw materials for spun silk fabrics with different qualities. They need to be reasonably matched and selected according to different spinning counts and fabric requirements.
History of spun silk
In ancient times, people only used some simple tools to boil and scour the cocoon and reeling waste and spin them into silk threads by hand. Semi-mechanical methods were gradually adopted in the middle of the 17th century. In the 18th century, the decomposition method was invented to degumming raw materials, which promoted the development of the silk spinning industry. It was not until the 1850s that the circular carding machine was created, and a relatively complete silk spinning machinery was formed. Since the traditional silk spinning production process is complicated and manual, combing machines have been introduced since the 1960s to replace the circular combing process.
Modern Development of of spun silk
The modern process of making spun silk fabrics is mainly divided into three stages: scouring, sliver making and spinning.
the raw materials are classified and merged according to quality, and loosen to remove impurities. Then adding an appropriate amount of alkali or acid and other chemical additives to the scouring liquid to degumm and remove most of the defective cocoons and waste silk. Sericin, as well as grease and impurities, make the fiber white and soft, showing the luster and feel that silk fibroin should have, and at the same time make the fiber loose, making it easier to process later. The refined fibers are rinsed with water, stripped of moisture, and dried.
Sliver making
It includes the processes of wetting the dry fiber, weighing, opening the fiber, cutting the fiber, combing the fiber, and sorting the fiber. The purpose is to make the long and tangled dry fiber into a certain range of lengths sliver suitable for spinning.
Since the moisture regain of the dry fibers is low, the emulsion is used to wet the silk fiber so that it can easily absorb moisture, improve its softness and lubricity, and help reduce fiber damage and eliminate static electricity in the subsequent processing. Weighing is to mix the dry fibers of various types and qualities in proportion, weigh a certain approximately 200-250 gm of silk and tie it into a ball.
The opening machine is also called the cocoon opening machine, which loosens the ball and removes some impurities such as pupae and pupae debris.
The cutting machine cuts the fibers into a length suitable for spinning, further combs and removes impurities, and then combs them on the circular combing machine to remove short fibers, impurities and knots, and obtains clean and parallel and straight long fibers. The drum of the circular combing machine sends the fibers to the next cutting machine and circular combing machine for further processing. The number of passes for cutting and combing is generally 1 to 3. The long fibers sliver from the last pass is used as the raw material for silk spinning. The short fibers which are removed in the processing will be utilized for the production of noil yarns.The fibers sorting is to manually check the quality, remove the remaining miscellaneous fibers, strands, etc., and separate and fold them into sheets of a certain width.
Spinning
spun silk yarn is produced from sliver through processes such as Stretching, Drawing, Roving, Winding and Doubling, Twisting, and Gassing.
Stretching refers to processing sliver into a tape of a certain length through two stretching machines in order to control the count of silk.
Drawing refers to repeatedly merging and drafting the sliver through a multi-pass draw frame to further thin it, improve uniformity, and make the fibers more straight and parallel.
Rolling refers to passing the sliver through the rolling machine to form stranded sliver, which is then put into a sliver can.
Roving refers to passing the twisted sliver into roving through a roving machine and twisting it with a spindle flyer.
Doubling refers to merging two spun yarns on a doubling machine to increase the strength and luster of the spun silk.
Twisting refers to twisting the parallel silk into yarns on a ring twisting machine to increase the toughness and stability of the silk.
Winding refers to passing the sliver through a winding machine to remove roughness and improve the cleanliness and appearance quality of the spun silk.
Gassing refers to passing the yarns through a gassing machine to remove the rough particles on the surface of the spun silk yarn, making the surface of the spun silk yarn smoother and brighter.
Noil Yarns
The waste fiber generated at various stages of spun silk yarn manufacture is is used for production of coarser varieties of yarn which are known as Noil Yarns. The process for production of noil yarn is similar to that of waste cotton system. Noil Yarns are used for the manufacture of silk noil poplin and other home textiles.
Spun Silk fabric technology is also constantly innovated and developed. According to different raw material varieties, spinning counts, fabric structures and dyeing and finishing processes, a variety of spun silk can be produced to meet different needs. market and consumer demand. Advanced equipment and technology have also been introduced into spun silk fabrics to improve production efficiency and quality, and reduce costs and environmental impact.To achieve cleaner production, some efforts have been made to replace the traditional degumming process with eco-friendly methods such as slaked lime water, steam treatment , ultrasound and enzymes. Some factories use worsted gill combing machines to comb silk fibers to replace the traditional process.
